The Rosengarten Report
August 18, 2003
Wanted: Texas BBQ!


Clem Mikeska's Bar-B-Q / Temple, Texas

Clem runs his place in Temple very much like Maurice does in El Campo (and brother Jerry does in Columbus, and nephew Tim does in Taylor): a cafeteria-style restaurant with gaudy hunting trophies. To me the real trophy is Clem's Bar-B-Que Pork Ribs ($7.95/lb.), one of the highlights of this testing - and considerably better than even Maurice's excellent ribs. This is a huge, meaty rack, with a lovely layer-cake effect, and a platonic fat-to-meat ratio. There's not much seasoning, and ,as at Maurice's place, the smoke is on the light side - but these ribs are intrinsically sweet and meaty, with a wonderful hammy kind of taste. To make that taste sing even louder, Clem provides a great "All Purpose Seasoning" - made from salt, pepper, sugar, and garlic - that enables you to put a delicious Memphis-style dry rub finish on your killer Texas ribs,

Clem also edges out Maurice in the sausage category; his Homemade Sausage ($6.95/lb) is pink, fairly course, with chunks of visible fat, Like Maurice's, it has a goodly amount of black pepper - but you can taste other spices here, such as something with a clove-like note, The meaty chew is like Maurice's in texture - but this bro' has better seasoning, a lovely-sweet-salty taste, and more meat flavor.

Clem's B-B-Q Chicken ($6.50 per bird) is in a virtual dead heat with Maurice's - a point or two down for drier breasts, a point or two up for the perfect seasoning. But it is in the brisket category that Clem really takes a hit. In fact, Clem doesn't offer brisket at all; he prefers to smoke a tri-tip roast, arguing that the beef flavor in the more expensive cut is better. Well, I sure wouldn't turn down Clem's Sirloin B-B-Q Beef ($7.95/lb.), a 3-lb triangle that certainly merits four stars as an eating experience. And it does have a steakier kind of taste to it. But is that what you want in Texas BBQ beef? Do you want less fat? Less tender beef? More elegance? I respect this item greatly - but I'm sticking with Maurice's brisket.

Both Mikeska places, by the way, represent great value.